The first shoes Manolo Blahnik designed for his a/w 2007 – 08 were what he calls the ‘Brutal’ shoes. “I wanted to progress from last summer’s tougher shoes,” he says, “so I kept the basic idea and then translated it using thicker, ‘wilder’ materials.” The result is a series of shoes and boots (AZIZ, TIZNIT, BILISHT) which mixes untreated ‘hairy’ materials with leather in designs that are part tribal, part futuristic – a mix of styles and references that only Blahnik can conjure up. But for every one of Blahnik’s design, there has to be an opposite, so the brutality of his initial designs is counteracted by a more feminine, softer approach, particularly for the evening. Rich embroidered velvet and satin (HARAD), chain mail and crystals (PUTZI) and an echelon of velvet bows (YATI) are all put to splendid use on pieces that take the notion of luxury footwear that step further, especially when combined with the designer’s beautifully crafted sole. Blahnik’s new heel of the season is the ‘waterdrop’ heel, so called because of its shape. “See how it goes in at the centre and then out again at the bottom – just like a drop of water” remarks Blahnik. “It’s a good contrast to my other, spikier heel – which tends to be the more aggressive one, or the other thicker heel I designed on the tougher styles. This one gives the softer option.” Blahnik’s shoes were once again treading the boards at London Fashion Week this season with a second collaboration with Aquascutum, for whom he designed two boots and a simple court shoe (AQUASTIPLAIN, AQUASTITRES, SAMRA) and a much celebrated first teaming up with Christopher Kane (QUAKAN, KANDOS, KANUN). He says of his work with other designers: “it’s something I really enjoy doing – it allows me to work with other people, get new insights, and take a break from my traditional method of working.”